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I'll be putting something on my web-pages in more detail including maps and photos of the nude beaches but meanwhile here are some comments about a late week in Ibiza. The simple answer to the question, "Did we enjoy it?" is a firm "Yes". However there are some reservations, not to do with the beaches but more to do with the nature of Ibiza itself. It has a certain and not undeserved reputation. I would certainly avoid it in July and August, perhaps into early September but outside of those months we would have no hesitation in going back.
Searches on the web did not actually come up with much information about the nude beaches, the usual "Nude beaches of Ibiza" page was the best guide and that is a little out of date. We found no nudity on Ses Salines beach, it's very much the place to be seen nowadays, the daytime home of the clubbers and 'beautiful people' during the main months and unless you want to pose in your latest bikini or half-bikini I'd discount it.
The other two beaches named there are Agua Blanca and Es Cavellet and naturally enough we tried both. Agua Blanca is on the north east coast of the island and is not served by either bus or boat. Therefore to reach it some kind of independent transport is needed. It was about a 15 minute drive from our accommodation at Cala Llonga. The metalled surface road nowadays leads almost to the beach. There is very limited parking at the rear of the Ibiza obligatory beach bar however there are a number of rough parking areas on the twisty descent to the beach. From some of these it seemed possible to short-cut down, we did not explore this possibility and found a space at the foot of the hill. Around the beach bar was almost all clothed but turning left (the only option) we soon found nuddies. Not many because it was a fairly overcast day but beyond the beach bar nudity was the norm.
The beach itself is sandy and quite narrow, backed by cliffs making it is very sheltered and is split into two bays separated by an easily crossed rocky outcrop. Like many beaches on Ibiza it was suffering from a seaweed problem at this time of the year, a problem that seemed to diminish later in the week when the wind changed direction and it got washed back out to sea. There are pleasant views too from this beach. However we quickly realised that we wouldn't be able to use it. The reason was that this late in the season the beach became almost completely shady at around 3.30pm as the sun moved behind the cliffs. In this respect the second bay seemed a slightly better option as the cliffs were further back.
Es Cavallet is a different matter altogether, in the south of the island it is easily accessible by bus from Ibiza town. They run all day via the resort of Playa D'en Bossa to Ses Salines beach. Get off at the signpost "Playa Es Cavallet" and walk 10 minutes up the rather pot-holed road to the beach. There is plenty of parking although I would guess that it gets busy high season. The beach is (I would guess) over a kilometre long and sandy throughout it's length. It is backed by low dunes and then some thick but passable scrubland which offers shade and privacy if required. You can reach you chosen spot on the beach by either walking it's length or taking the easy option and walking the hard path at the rear of the scrub and cutting through at the appropriate point.
Like most other beaches it had a seaweed problem, piles of the stuff at the waters edge but halfway through the week the wind changed to it's more usual direction and it was gradually washed away. The seabed is rocky with sandy patches but the water was perfectly accessible for both swimming and cooling purposes.
At either end of the beach are substantial beach bars serving all kinds of refreshment, one doubles as a salsa bar during the evening and night.
In common with most European beaches this one had the usual divisions, near the beach bar at the southern end it was predominantly families and couples, mid-way along it was couples/single men and at the other end, near the furthest beach bar it was gays of both sexes. Visitors should be advised that Ibiza is 'sun, sea, sand and sex' in the raw and in places this beach has all four in abundance even this late in the season.
One further warning, although overall Ibiza does not have a crime problem it does seem to have one of opportunist thieves targeting those relaxing on the beach. This is not specific to Es Cavellet and neither is it specific to Ibiza. On the Thursday of our week a Dutch couple sun-bathing close by us had their beach bag stolen while they were swimming. As it contained nothing of value no real damage was done and it had the good effect of making those sun-bathing in our area both aware and friends as we searched the scrub in case it had been abandoned. This awareness and friendship proved invaluable when the thieves returned the following day............
Terry saw the bastards actually lift a guy's bum-bag from behind his head (inches behind at that) as he dozed. They headed towards the scrub at the rear. Cutting a long story short we cornered them, two young clothed guys and it was then that we all felt very vulnerable indeed. Expecting the guys to run I was surprised that they turned to confront, it wasn't the nakedness that made me feel vulnerable my instinct told me that by being confrontational they might have the advantage, possibly a knife. Not prepared to take the risk I settled for recovering the intact bum-bag (passport, credit cards etc) and winding some "F's" into them (not that they probably understood them!!!!) Getting too old for it nowadays methinks.
Finally we didn't make Formentera, not really worth the bother to be honest. Es Cavallet had everything we wanted (including excitement) and it wasn't that far short of the standard of beach there. Other than that the ferries were only running a limited service and on several days the weather was a little marginal although on others it was brilliantly sunny and hot. However it was clear that ferries run to the beaches of Formentera from most resorts daily, depending on where on Ibiza they started the cost was between £8 and £12. Fast ferries run from Ibiza town to La Sabina on Formentera every hour during the season, the trip takes about 25 minutes on them, about an hour on the slower ones to the beaches.
As for other aspects of a holiday, well Ibiza has just about anything that anyone could want somewhere on the island. Our accommodation was top-quality although a little too family orientated for our taste (screaming kids everywhere), Cala Llonga was nice and quiet and very pretty with signposted walks around both headlands, we had a good deal on car hire and finally flights were on-time in both directions. Certainly no complaints about J.M.C, incidentally this company also gives full information and directions to both nude beaches in their in-resort guides.
I like Ibiza, fell in love with the place on my first visit 19 years ago and I certainly didn't fall out of love with it on this visit. We'll be back again methinks.
If you have any comments about this report or wish to add further information
please email them to:
neffupdate @ ada-augusta . demon . co . uk
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