Fuerteventura has certainly become much busier since the early 90's when we first visited- now 3.5 million visitors yearly and growing according to airport stats. Not surprisingly, the main beaches have become more more populated and less naturist- especially Corralejo (unfortunately watch out for oil at the high water mark) and it can be difficult to find a car parking spot so we've mostly headed south to Jandia/Costa Calma. Allow an hour by car from Caleta, though there may be road-works en route still (December quite a delay.)
As elsewhere, the main Southern tourist areas are spreading in all directions such that beach areas nearby are less naturist, and also less tranquil as motorised water sports, etc., become more popular. Beaches less easily accessed (i.e. by dirt track) are now maybe 50/50 naturist/textile when once were close to 100%. It's likely this ratio will reduce as Jandia and Costa Calma are opened up to the mass British market, JMC, Thomson, Airtours now feature Costa Calma and Jandia quite heavily in their brochures. The beaches are still beautiful though even if there are a lot more footprints in the sand.
For some pretty inland scenery the drive to El Cotillo is a must, and you should be guaranteed some peace and quiet when you arrive. So, there's a chance that the island may become a victim of its own success, for with increased numbers comes an increase in undesirables (no, I don't mean textiles)- for example there was a spate of apartment burglaries, whilst they were occupied, in Caleta last December during our stay, so, sadly, take the normal precautions. The tour operators certainly won't tell you about anything that might attract negative publicity.
Having read all this through it seems a bit on the negative side, which wasn't our intention - it's still wonderful and we'll be back in May!
This was our tenth visit to the island, but our first stay in Costa Calma. For most repeat visitors Fuerteventura's great attraction is its naturist beaches, and most have their own particular favourite stretch. Our own favourite is the area just south of Costa Calma, hence the decision to stay in Costa Calma and avoid the longish drive down from the north of the island.
In common with the rest of the island, Costa Calma is suffering from 'jump on the bandwagon before it's too late' development. Whether this leads to over-development and the ruination of what made Fuerte' popular in the first place remains to be seen, and there's no doubt that since our first visits in the early nineties the beaches have become more populated and less naturist, but even so there's still room for all.
Costa Calma itself - or at least the beach side of it - consists mainly of hotels and so is fairly charm-less. At least Hotel Playa Esmeralda isn't surrounded by anything at all yet, though this means that if you fancy a beer in a local bar it's a long walk in the darkness or a taxi. Even the nearest supermarket (good) is the best par of a kilometre away. The hotel itself, now a year old, was very good indeed and for the most part employed staff that actually seemed pleased that you were there and never failed to have a cheerful smile as they said hello.
Some brochures advertise the hotel as having a 'naturist area' which is actually on the beach in front of the hotel - about 50% naturist. From here it's possible with the tide out to walk for miles south with only Hotel Sol Elite Gorriones (been in the Thomson brochure for years) and a windsurf school shack to spoil the view. Get there before the entire 20km of golden sand turns into a road connecting Costa Calma with Jandia.
Following a visit in April we've just returned from the same hotel as last time, Playa Esmeralda in Costa Calma. The hotel is still as impressive as it was on our first visit - nobody we spoke to had a bad word to say about the it. This time though we booked direct via email and saved a small fortune, well worth it even if it's more convenient to book as part of a package.
There are more UK people here than last time and the naturist proportion using the main hotel beach and sun-beds has fallen such that most, as in other such places, tend to wander away from the hotel just a little bit before disrobing.
Our favourite part of the 20km beach is still reached via the track just before the Shell garage when heading south. It has a large green 'wheelie bin' marking it. It's usually a good sign when the local women arrive on their own and use the beach for a quick dip and to top up the all-over tan. It's easy when the sea temperature and weather was so good!
Only possible downside is that the main north-south road is being developed to take out the twisty, hilly bits and will be a dual carriageway in parts. This might infringe on the beach(es) such that you'll be able to hear road traffic instead of wave traffic. Let's hope it doesn't get that bad though.
We're already thinking of our next visit (and we have no connection with the Fuerte tourist board.)
Jon
To which Sunfly added...
I have been to Fuerteventura several times now and I have found that you can go naked in most places without too much hassle, as long as you are not right in front of a commercial area. So it has not be necessary to go to inaccessible places. The stretch of beach south of Corallejo on the nature reserve is pretty well clothing optional and if you just strip off where it is not too crowded, you will find others will follow suit. Same in the lagoons around the lighthouse, where the water is great for kids.
There are one or two beaches on the west side of the island under the cliffs, accessible via a concrete staircase which are almost totally naturist. And on the whole stretch down to Jandia, people just do as they please. A fantastic place for a long naturist walk.
Sunfly
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